Tuscan Wine Excellence: Terre di Toscana 2020

The 13th edition of Tuscan Wine Excellence “Terre di Toscana” in Lido di Camaiore, which survived by a miracle, ended a few days ago, considering that all the other events were cancelled in March. It is one of the most interesting events involving Tuscan wines. The quality level of the wineries makes the difference. Moreover, for some years, on the second day, the producers had the opportunity to bring the old vintages. An excellent occasion to taste some hard-to-find bottles.

For me, it was my first year as a freelancer since I represented the Tenuta Degli Dei Cavalli winery for ten years, present at this event also this year.

Here are some tastings:

Duemani winery: Cifra 2018, Altrovino 2017, Duemani 2017, Suisassi 2017. Incredible cleanliness. Duemani has worked for years using Demeter-certified biodynamic farming practices. The explosive fruit in the “Cifra” wine is fascinating. I have always loved this wine as a fan of Cabernet Franc, which we also find in the more complex “Duemani” wine. I recommend these vintages as the maximum expression of the vines, territory, and execution of the biodynamic winemaking.

Badia a Coltibuono: Chianti Classico 2017, Chianti Classico Riserva 2016. I have always loved these wines, which never betray me in their balance and elegance. Organic certified. Badia a Coltibuono winery is always a guarantee.

Baracchi: Metodo Classico Brut Trebbiano 2016, Metodo Classico Brut Rosé 2015. We are in the Cortona area. Baracchi family is famous for the luxury Resort “Il Falconiere” and the Michelin-star restaurant where the owner and Chef Silvia Baracchi carry on this ambitious project with her family. They were among the first to produce wines with the Traditional Method in Tuscany; both wines are well done.

Beconcini Pietro: Vea Anno Zero Trebbiano, PRS Malvasia Lunga, Fresco di Nero Tempranillo Rosato. I tasted just whites and the rosé which are truly remarkable. Rich fruit, beautiful freshness.

Bibbiano: Chianti Classico 2018, Chianti Classico Vigna del Capannino 1999. Extraordinary ’99. The Bibbiano wines have great ageing potential.

Antonio Camillo: Tutti i giorni Bianco 2019, Vermentino 2019, Procanico 2018, Tutti i giorni Rosso 2019, Morellino di Scansano 2019, Ciliegiolo 2019, Ciliegiolo Vigna Vallerana Alta 2018. One of the most interesting wineries in the Maremma area, especially the 2019 was among the best tastings at the Chianti Lovers preview.

Capannelle: Chardonnay 2016, Rosato 2019, Chianti Classico Riserva 2015. A well-defined style and excellent fruit expression.

Caparsa: Rosato di Caparsa 2018, Rosso di Caparsa, Chianti Classico 2016, Chianti Classico Riserva Caparsino 2016 – 2015 – 2014, Chianti Classico Riserva Doccio a Matteo 2016 – 2015 – 2012. Fantastic wines, each one with his clear identity.

Capezzana: Chardonnay 2019, Trebbiano 2018. Trebbiano is among the best-known whites on the Tuscan territory and fully deserves its fame. I described the reds and the Vinsanto a few days ago in the PrimAnprima article.

Castell’in Villa: Chianti Classico 2015. One of my favorite Chianti Classico. Pure elegance. Extraordinary.

Castello di Ama: Al Poggio 2019, Purple Rose 2019, Il Chiuso 2018, Chianti Classico Ama 2018, Haiku 2017, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo 2016, Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Ama 2007, Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Ama 2006. Wines of incredible longevity. “San Lorenzo” has always been my favourite one.

Castello di Monsanto: Chardonnay Collezione 2018, Rosato 2018, Chianti Classico 2017, Chianti Classico Riserva 2016, Sangioveto Grosso Vigna Scanni 2016, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Il Poggio 2015, Nemo Vigneto Il Mulino 2015, Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggio 1968. Chardonnay has always been among the best Tuscan white wines.

While the Chianti Classico at the Chianti Classico Preview this year was one of three of my best tastings. You cannot miss it as it is the maximum expression of the territory and of the denomination itself. But the longevity of Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggio 1968 is outstanding.

Contucci: Rosso di Montepulciano 2018, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2015, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Mulinvecchio 2015, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Pietra Rossa 2015, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Palazzo Contucci 2015. I must say that the winery works Sangiovese in an exemplary way on Montepulciano territory.

The area is still more penalized in popularity compared to Chianti Classico, and apart from a few outsider wines, the area always remained in the shade for wine lovers. It is a pleasure to find so much elegance, frankness, and consistency in the style of Andrea Contucci wines. Chapeau!

Corzano e Paterno: Il Corzanello Bianco 2018, Chianti Terre di Corzano 2018, I Tre Borri 2016, Il Corzano 2016, Il Passito 2005. It has not been many years since I discovered the wines of Corzano e Paterno, unlike their amazing unique cheeses. The wines are very well made, and I am curious to taste two bottles of “Corzano” 1997 and 1999 that I found in the wine shop of a dear friend of mine.

Cuna di Federico Staderini: Cuna 2016, Brendino 2016, Sempremai 2014. Federico Staderini is a formidable winemaker, and Tuscan wine lovers have heard about his Pinot Noir Cuna for many years. Absolutely not to be missed. While I want to spend more words about “Sempremai” wine.

Sempremai is made in very few bottles, from 300 to 600, produced from an Ambrosine grape variety, which comes from the domestication of wild grapes. It is a late-ripening, with small berries, rich in colour and fairly rough tannins.

So it is the opposite of Pinot Noir, its vinification is also very different. It is completely destemmed, pressed with the feet (it is not just storytelling or used only for Porto wines) to favour the extraction of the colour that lasts for five days. Fermentation takes place in the old barriques.

Complete the process of its maturation takes at least 3-4 years. Now Sepremai 2014 vintage is ready to be tasted. You will certainly understand why I deserved more focus so unique wine.

Fattoi: Rosso di Montalcino 2018, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Brunello di Montalcino 2013, Brunello di Montalcino 2012, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012, Brunello di Montalcino 2012 in Magnum. Fattoi works in an exemplary way in Montalcino, with great coherence, consistency in style, and really well-made wines.

Fattoria Ambra: Trebbiano di Toscana 2019, Barco Reale di Carmignano Vin Ruspo Rosato 2019, Carmignano Riserva Elzana 2016, Carmignano Riserva Montalbiolo 2016. Particular attention goes to the Riserva Elzana, which stands out for its elegance.

The winery mainly uses Sangiovese in the Carmignano area. Therefore the wines are characterized by a different imprint from the style of other Carmignano, where Cabernet Sauvignon, which is considered a native grape here, has wide use in blends.

Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara: Vernaccia di San Gimignano Selvabianca 2019, Vernaccia di San Gimignano Campo della Pieve 2017, Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva L’Albereta 2016, Chianti Colli Senesi Campale 2017, Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva L’Albereta 2014 in Magnum. Another article about San Gimignano has already described the winery and surrounding area. Amazing Alberta 2014. Generally, they produce Vernaccia wines with excellent ageing potential and capable of developing very complex aromas and flavours over time.

Il Marroneto: Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio 2017, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie 2015. Among the best tastes of Benvenuto Brunello and Terre di Toscana. Everyone talks about Madonna delle Grazie. This wine’s success is irrepressible and well-deserved,, but Alessandro Moro knows I have been one of his wines’ greatest fans and consumers for many years. I love the elegance of his “basic” Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio.

Il Palagio di Panzano: Aldemara 2019, Chianti Classico 2016, Chianti Classico Riserva 2015, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Le Bambole 2015. Excellent wines. In the Panzano area, producers work in different ways, but Panzano terroir is so recognizable in a glass of wine for me.

Il Rio: Annita Bianco 2018 Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Sauvignon Blanc, Ventisei Pinot Nero 2016, Ventisei Pinot Nero 2013, Ventisei Pinot Nero 2010. I love their Pinot Noir. They have less structure but very complex aromatic scents. I enjoyed it trying three different vintages.

Istine: Rosato 2019, Chianti Classico 2017, Chianti Classico Vigna Cavarchione 2017, Chianti Classico Vigna Istine 2017, Chianti Classico Casanova dell’Aia 2017, Chianti Classico Riserva Levigne 2016, Chianti Classico Riserva Levigne 2013. Angela Fronti has great charm, and thanks to her communication skills and excellent quality level over the years, her work and wines achieved great and well-deserved success.

Fattoria di Magliano: Maremma Toscana Vermentino Pagliatura 2019, Maremma Toscana Ansonica Brissaia 2019, Morellino di Scansano Heba 2018. In its 2019 version, the latter also has outstanding fruit freshness and drinkability.

Fattoria Montellori: Montellori Pas Dosé Blanc des Blancs 2015, Trebbiano Viti di 60 Anni 2018. Fantastic Pas Dosè Metodo Classico, bone-dry palate, clean, complex Traditional Method sparkling wine from Chardonnay grapes. Now a well-established winery in the Tuscan territory, it produces another more complex Pas Dosè, 60 months on the yeasts.

For the quality/price ratio, Montellori sparkling wines beat many well-known ones from famous Traditional Method denominations. I am the biggest Montellori sparkling wine consumer.

Fattoria Selvapiana: Chianti Rufina 2017, Chianti Rufina Vigneto Erchi 2016, Chianti Rufina Vigneto Bucerchiale 2016, Pomino Villa di Petrognano 2015, Fornace 2015, Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina 2011. A very elegant wine with silky tannins. The cellar is now well-known with a reputation for high quality. I also tasted both Riserva wines at PrimAnprima: Bucerchiale and Erchi 2017, both well made, still too young with high and little grippy tannins. The story changes for both in the 2016 vintage, and it is more balanced at moment.

Fontodi: Chianti Classico 2017, Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole 2017, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo 2016, Flaccianello della Pieve 2016, Pinot Nero 2016, Syrah 2016. Excellent wines, all of them.

Fortulla: Terratico di Bibbona Vermentino Serpentino 2019, Epatta 2019, Pelagico 2018, Fortulla 2015, Sorpasso 2014. I also adore Pelagico wine from the charming Petit Manseng grapes and Rosato.

Salvioni: Rosso di Montalcino 2018, Brunello di Montalcin or 2015. Salvioni is the history, the example, and the pride of a territory.

Le Chiuse: Stellare Brut Rosé Metodo Classico, Rosso di Montalcino 2017, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010. Another beautiful tribute to tradition.

Le Macchiole: Paleo Bianco 2018, Bolgheri Rosso 2018, Paleo Rosso 2016, Scrio 2016, Messorio 2016. If I’m not mistaken, Paleo, made since 2000 with just Cabernet Franc grapes, is among the top three Tuscan wines in my preferences; if I should choose just one: Paleo 2004. Elegance in any wine.

Le Potazzine: Rosso di Montalcino 2018, Brunello di Montalcino 2015. I love Le Potazzine wines. One of the most fascinating women of Montalcino, Gigliola Giannetti, has always produced them in an exemplary way. She is a great woman and realizes great wines.

Le Ragnaie: Troncone 2017, Rosso di Montalcino 2017, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Brunello di Montalcino VV 2015, Brunello di Montalcino Fornace 2015, Brunello di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli 2015, Brunello di Montalcino Fornace 201 in Magnum. Riccardo Campinoti wines have a fairly recognizable style. For years, he has been the focus of my attention and remains among my favourite producers in Montalcino.

Monteraponi: Chianti Classico 2018, Chianti Classico Riserva Il Cam pitello 2017, Baron’Ugo 2016, Baron’Ugo 2013 in Magnum. In my top three Chianti Classico wines, perhaps. For years. I simply adore “Baron’Ugo”.

Montevertine: Pian del Ciampolo 2018, Montevertine 2017, Le Pergole Torte 2017. So traditional, so elegant, an absolute outsider. Montevertine never changed the style. It needs no introduction. Simply sensational.

Podere Il Carnasciale: Carnasciale 2017, Caberlot 2016. Caberlot is not a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, as the name suggests. It is a grape obtained from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot crossing, which I suppose is unique in Italy and produced just in Magnum format. It is a niche wine, very complex, and outstanding.

Rocca di Montegrossi: Rosato 2019, Chianti Classico 2018, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcelli no 2015, Geremia 2015, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2009. The company has switched to completely organic production. For years they have made a delightful rosé that I love, delicious Chianti Classico, San Marcellino, perfect for longer ageing.

San Giusto a Rentennano: Fuori Misura 2019, Chianti Classico 2018, Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baròncole 2017, Percarlo 2016, Vin San Giusto 2012, Merlot La Ricolma 2008 in Magnum. Beautiful winery. I visited them a few days ago, so they deserve an article.

Satta Michele: Bolgheri Bianco Costa di Giulia 2019, Giovin Re 2018, Bolgheri Rosso Michele Satta 2018. Michele Satta, with his legendary Viogner “GiovinRe”, a man who changed the disciplinary rules and made history with this wine.

Sesti: Rosso di Montalcino 2018, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena 2012 in Magnum. I really love the Sesti elegant and drinkable style. Phenomena 2012 definitely needs more time to express its best.

Tenuta Col d’Orcia: Sant’Antimo Pinot Grigio 2019, Sant’Antimo Chardonnay Ghiaie Bianche 2018, Rosso di Montalcino 2017, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Moscadello di Montalcino Pascèna 2014, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggia al Vento 2012, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggia al Vento 2010, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggia al Vento 2001. I could write for hours about Col d’Orcia. Just a few words: tradition, incredible cellar with historic vintages, Riserva Poggio al Vento in its three vintages was an amazing gift. If you are curious about their fascinating history, take a look at my article about Col d’Orcia winery.

Tenuta degli Dei: Chianti Classico Forcole 2017, Le Redini Tenuta degli Dei 2017, Cavalli Tenuta degli Dei 2015. For ten years, I have worked with Tommaso Cavalli, the eldest son of a well-known fashion designer, who personally takes care of the production of the wines. Obviously, I love their wines, with three completely different expressions.

Tenuta di Trinoro: Le Cupole 2017, Magnacosta 2017, Tenuta di Trinoro 2017, Palazzi 2016. I particularly love Le Cupole for its explosive and pleasant fruit, even if this vintage is more complex and more subtle fruit.

Tenuta La Massa: La Massa 2017, Carla 2016, Giorgio Primo 2016. Excellent vintage for the Giorgio Primo wine.

Terenzuola: Colli di Luni Vermentino Vigne Basse 2019, Colli di Luni Vermentino Fosso di Corsano 2018, Permano Vermentino Bianco 2017, Vermentino Nero 2018, Merla della Miniera 2016, Permano Vermentino Nero 2015, Colli di Luni Vermentino Fosso di Corsano 2015, Colli di Luni Vermentino Fosso di Corsano 2013. Incredible how Vermentino evolves. Fantastic the trio of Fosso di Corsano. Poetry in the glass.

Tenuta di Carleone: Meticcio 2018, Il Guercio 2018, Chianti Classico 2017, Uno 2017. Wines discovered recently, really well made, with the utmost respect for Sangiovese. I also enjoy the packaging, elegance in every detail, also referring to wine.

While in the gastronomic corner, there were my two favourite producers:

Tortepistocchi, a company that produces excellent artisan chocolate, has become very famous for Tortepistocchi chocolate cakes. I’ve always wondered how it is possible without flour, eggs, or butter, Tortepistocchi cakes are so delicious?! Vegan, not even sugar, just pure chocolate. For those who have never tried them, just do it!

And then fantastic sheep cheeses of Paterno e Corzano, among the best in Italy, with very limited artisan production. I simply adore “Buccia di Rospo” (Toads Skin), a cheese constantly changing its crust during constant maturation. I also love seasoned ones and blue cheese “Blu”. Here, every cheese is a masterpiece.

Both of them you can find on the e-commerce Tooscans platform (Tuscan products of the highest quality), and I am honoured and proud to have them in my selection.